Rosa Bonheur

I haven’t quite figured out the bar scene in Paris. There is, of course, Experimental and Curio Parlor, the cocktail bars that are cool, but expensive and overrun by Americans. There’s the café culture, with fabulous terraces and carafes of wine. But I struggle to find the in between scene: a good neighborhood bar that is chic but not fancy, has a variety of affordable wine, beer and cocktails, and a great scene.

I don’t think I’m the only one who’s perplexed by the lack of good bars. When something enters the radar, everyone goes nuts for it. Rosa Bonheur is a case in point.




This little canteen in Parc de Buttes-Chaumont opened last summer but is this season’s it scene. I joined Melissa and her friends there on Thursday night—a deliciously hot summer night—and couldn’t believe how the crowd ballooned into a massive street party, with a brass band, plenty of Heinekens and enough energy and fun to make up for an otherwise quiet, uneventful drinking scene around town.