Une question: Paris with the husband

Dear Amy,

I've been reading your blog over and over again (loving it!!), but still have a simple question for you... We are planning a trip to Paris in May for 6 nights; I've been to Paris for several times, but my fresh husband hasn't. Please do name a few places I should 100% definitely drag him! You know the best.

Greetings from freezing Estonia,

JB

Salut, JB!

How exciting that you get to play tour guide for your husband. May is glorious time in the City of Light and you should have a wonderful visit. A handful of places you should 100% definitely drag him?

There are boat tour that leave from Pont Neuf. Take one that leaves at dusk for a beautiful and romantic perspective of the city. You can bring some wine or chocolates. It lasts about an hour and only cost 10-12 euro per person.

There are obviously museums a’plenty in Paris. The Rodin is especially pretty and romantic. It’s a very doable size, with inspiring sculptures and beautiful grounds.

Grab some picnic provisions on rue Moufftard or rue Buci and kick back in the Luxembourg Gardens.

It’s totally extravagant, but you will never forget lunch at Grand Vefour. It’s exceptional in every sense.

Simply follow the Seine: Walk from Ile Saint Louis, past Notre Dame, poke along the bookstalls, criss-cross the bridges, admire the Louvre, Place de la Concorde, absorb the beauty of Pont Alexandre III and stare at the Eiffel Tower.

Lastly, a few restaurants to consider: Au Vieux au Comptoir in the 1e is a meat-centric locals’ gem. Chez Georges  in the 2eme is an adorable old-timey bistro—tres romantique! And Chez Janou in the Marais is a Provencal bistro—boisterous and delicious. 

Have a wonderful time next month!

Amy

Une question: Traveing to Paris in May

Bonjour Amy!

I'm writing to ask advice for traveling to Paris in May. This year May 8, Victoire Day, is a Wednesday, and Ascension Day is Thursday, May 9.  My friend and I were planning to go to Paris May 2 to May 10, but now I'm thinking we should change the dates.  We have not booked flights yet. Will we have to scrounge to find restaurants and patisseries and boulangeries that are open? If we switch to early June, will everything be so much more crowded?
Merci from a fellow chocoholic,
Dawn in Colorado

Salut, Dawn! 

You know, I hate to say it but I do think you'd be better off bumping your trip to June (or late May if that's preferable). May is riddled with holidays and, as you suspected, many boutiques, restaurants and, worst of all, boulangeries, shutter. Of course not the whole city is shut down, but if you have the flexibility, you'd be happier with seven full days to romp wherever your hearts and stomachs take you, rather than passing a whole day in the park because nothing is open.

And in terms of crowds in June, I don't think it will make a big difference. July and August, sure, get pretty touristy, but June is actually a wonderful time to visit. Good temps and long, long days of sunshine—which make it that much easier to squeeze in an extra chocolate “gouter” (or two).

Bon voyage!
Amy

Une question: Eating in Paris with kids

Hi Amy,

We are planning a trip to Europe this summer including London, Paris and Budapest. My kids have never been across the pond. I've been a few times and my husband has been once. However...my kids, and let's face it, my husband too, have incredibly bland, boring, white bread palates and the thought of trying to keep them all fed on our European adventure is cringe-worthy. I really want to avoid resorting to the dreaded golden arches (or at least no more than once per city :) or feeding them nothing but baguettes and chips. My kids are now 7 and 10 years old, and won't touch anything remotely spicy or with sauce! 

So what's a Canadian family in Paris to do? Do you have any (edible) advice for me?

—Kathy

Dear Kathy,

When I lived in Paris, my niece and nephew visited on several occasions and, while they were born abroad and were maybe exposed to more foreign flavors than plain pizza and fried potatoes, they were still kids. And we still ate up the city.

After a visit to the Natural History Museum (fabulous!), we went to La Mosquée. There is enough on the menu—from couscous to kebabs, steaks to frites—to satisfy everyone. And you must order pastries and mint tea. I know it might seem counterintuitive to go even more exotic, but never underestimate good entertainment. There are little birdies flying through the dining room, and the waiters dramatically pour tea from three feet above the cup, and it’ll probably be one of their favorite experiences.

On that note, the old-timey waiters at Le Chartier just might shame them (in the most pleasingly French way, bien sur) into ordering and eating something as palatable as roasted chicken and fries.

Do they like cheese? Like, hot, melty cheese? It could be really fun to go for fondue—especially at a fun place like Le Refuge des Fondus (just down the hill from Sacre Coeur, a great destination and charming neighborhood).

You could also walk around a market and let them choose. Le Marché des Enfant Rouge, the oldest market in the city, is chockablock with French, Moroccan, Japanese, Italian—certainly they’ll find something that whets their appetite. (You, my friend, will have to stop by Alain’s counter for “the best sandwich in the universe.”)

Since they love pizza at home, no doubt they’ll become hopelessly addicted to street crepes. And pourquoi pas? Cheap, delicious, simple. Done.

I hope you're getting excited for your trip - it sounds like it's going to be wonderful!
xo,
Amy

Une question: How to celebrate your 40th birthday in Paris

Hi Amy, 

I will be traveling to Paris in March for my 40^th Bday.  I have been there a couple of times and have stayed in the Latin Quarter.  My partner is coming with me and he has never been to Paris. (I’m so excited for him since he is a chef-he is going to love it.) Do you have any recommendations on where to stay? We are planning on renting an apartment but I don’t know which arrondissements to stay in. Also, if you have any recommendations on where to eat that would be great too!

—Joy 

If there are two things I love, and two things I love to lavish in, they’re birthdays and Paris. I’m thrilled to share some ideas!

First, where to stay. My top arrondissement picks would be the second, third and ninth, on the Right Bank and the fifth and sixth on the Left Bank. Any of these (indeed, any in city center) will make you feel right in the heart of everything. And you will be. In the heart of the city. Plus you’ll feel that inexplicable giddiness any time you leave and come “home” in these residential neighborhoods that are also conveniently close to so many landmarks, museums, restaurants, chocolatiers (essential) and transportation options. My friend Erica runs a wonderful company for short-term rentals called Haven in Paris.

Where to eat…where to eat? Where to begin?!

I would definitely consider a pricey but worth every centime lunch at Le Grand Vefour. It’s an experience I’ll never forget. The cheese cart alone is decadence of the highest caliber. But every gesture from the attentive staff, every brush against the historic red velvet banquettes, every delightful bite is a reminder of why the French have a reputation for indulging in true pleasures.

Similarly, I’d visit at least one of the grand hotels: maybe Four Seasons for breakfast, Le Meurice for a mid-day club sandwich, Le Royal Monceau for cocktails (or a bespoke Pierre Hermé millefeuille), the Mandarin Oriental for a spa treatment. Heck, why not do them all—you only turn 40 once!

I’ve never been, but I do hear great things about Le Jules Verne, up on the second level of the Eiffel Tower. If you want a memorable birthday dinner, that could be it. L’Astrance would be my other decadent pick.

As for the rest of your visit (i.e. coming back down to earth), here is a random (but bona fide delicious) assortment of restaurant ideas.

La Régalade Saint-Honoré (1e) is simply wonderful. Delicious food and a great value.

Au Vieux au Comptoir (1e) is a local favorite. No frills atmosphere. Warm staff. Heavy on the meats.

Chez Georges (2eme) is a cozy, old-timey bistro with a classic menu and atmosphere.

It would be fun for you to go to Verjus (1e) which is a cool little wine bar/restaurant founded by an American couple who started HiddenKitchen in Paris years ago. Though Braden didn’t go to cooking school, you’d be hard-pressed to find someone having as much fun and doing as impressive things as he is in the kitchen. (And his wife, Laura, is a doll.)

Le Verre Volé – this has been a happening little wine bar for many years now. Great cooking, situated right on the canal, which is a very trendy neighborhood. Not far away, you’ll find Le Chateaubriand, the bistro darling of international food disciples.

Chef Christian Constant has three very accessible and lovely restaurants over near the Eiffel Tower: Café Constant, Les Cocottes de Christian Constant and Le Violon d’Ingres. You’re guaranteed to have a great meal at any of them.

Of course it’s a must to pass some time at a café. Café Flore, Les Deux Magots, Café Palette, Chez Prune and Le Café de la Paix are all classics. You can also find a pedestrian street like rue Montorgueil, rue Cler or rue Buci, spattered with cute cafes, and just pick the spot that calls your name loudest.

Don't miss the markets for food inspiration and if you want to get your hands on some raw ingredients, check out La Cuisine for really fun cooking classes.

 

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I feel like I could go on and on but I think this is a good place to begin. So is Meg Zimbeck's Paris by Mouth.

 Bon anniversaire! I'm very excited for your upcoming adventure!

xo,
Amy