Saturday, August 29, 2009

The little things I love

August was a brutal month. But there were the little moments throughout. There always are.

I think this is one of my favorite photos so far. I took a ride on the ferris wheel.

And took in the view from the top.


Ahhh, the fruit.
Then there are the macarons.

Sometimes I have to stick my head out the window to take in the evening view. Gorgeous.

And Place Vendome, je t'aime.

New York, New York

Although I’ve surprised myself with not missing tons of things back home (except all of you, of course), now that I’m about to return, I am unbelievably excited for many things.

I’m excited to read magazines again: smutty fashion magazines and the local rags.

I’m excited to eat bagels and pizza.

I’m excited to take taxis home—instead of the Velibs—and to watch all of the lights and people and energy whizzing by the window.

I’m excited for the restaurants and to drink and to stay out past my bedtime.

I’m really excited to see my apartment again. I feel like it’s a part of me.

I'm excited for yoga.

I'm excited not to work for two weeks.

And I’m excited, so excited, to see everyone. A bientot!

Top 10 tastes in six months

As I look forward to my NYC visit, and all of my lunch and dinner and cocktail dates (cannot, cannot wait!), I’ve been hitting the rewind on my past nearly-six months here. Here are the Top 10 things I’ve eaten.

My first Nutella crepe
That fruit salad infused with vanilla
Chicken pastilla
Bernachon Pâte d’Amande Pistache tablette
Lunch in Nice
Cantaloupe. Perfect.
The Eric Kayser baguette, dressed with olive oil, mozzarella and salt and pepper when Mom and Bob were here
An octopus salad, done perfectly at Bistro Paul Bert
The warm pain au raisin from Stohrer
Ladurée’s strawberry and pistachio Saint-Honoré

Spike Jonze, Catherine Keener and the Yeah Yeah Yeahs?!

Where the Wild Things Are Trailer #2

Donald Mitchell

Melissa has shared many beautiful things with me here in Paris. One of them is Donald Mitchell.

A couple months ago, after a heinously drunken Saturday night when I wanted to just pass out on the sidewalk, but instead got sick on my doorstep and dragged up the six flights of stairs by my very forgiving friend Michael, I had plans to meet Melissa. I hadn’t been that hungover in I don’t know how many years, but I couldn’t flake. So I threw on my baggy jeans, added extra blush to look alive, and met Melissa at Galerie Impaire, where she was doing a little consulting work.

Galerie Impaire is affiliated with Creative Growth, an art center in Oakland, CA that’s devoted to mentally, physically and developmentally disabled adults. There are about 150 artists there, and they’re likely to work five hours a day, for several days a week. When verbal communication fails, their art is how they express themselves. How wonderful that Elias Katz, a psychologist with developmental disabilities expertise, and Florence Ludins-Katz, an artist and art teacher, created this place where these artists can work, and that Tom di Maria opened Galerie Impaire to represent their work here in Paris.

Melissa showed me around the gallery, and I was so drawn into the story and the artists. She explained that they mostly fell into one of two categories: they either created these outrageously over-the-top fantasy worlds and characters—an indication maybe of the world as they see it or how they wish it to be. But in any case, very far from reality.

The other camp falls into a repetitive mode, drawing or painting the same thing, shape, person, whatever, over and over. Like Donald Mitchell.

Mitchell grew up in San Francisco. He was a late learner (didn’t speak until he was five) and stuck in special ed classes. When he was a teenager, he was running across the street and hit by a bus. Afterwards, he was diagnosed with moderate mental retardation and schizophrenia, and ran a bit with a bad crowd, leading to stints in juvenile detention as well as psychiatric facilities. A caseworker finally recommended him for admission to Creative Growth in 1975. He’s been working there since.

The more you look at Mitchell’s work, the more moving it is. Some drawings are intricate and feathery. Others are bold and geometric. Most are black and white, created with ink and paper, though he has done some beguiling watercolors. By the end of my visit, I knew I wanted to take one home with me and narrowed it down to four considerations. I went back a few weeks later with my decision and credit card.



The reason I’m writing about him now is I was just cleaning my apartment before leaving for New York and stopped to look at my Donald Mitchell. It makes me so happy.


As Melissa pointed out, mine is a little unusual. It has his trademark human figures, drawn in a repetitive pattern. But it also has some color and words, both of which are rarer for Mitchell. I like that it incorporates some of his dark, hashing marks but still feels light.

His story haunts me a bit. Life is so fragile. And when it’s reduced to such simple thoughts and expressions, it’s somehow more moving. It's bigger, more emotional. So happy I have this.

Thanks, Melis.

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

The medical mysteries of acclimating to a new city

I had to get some blood drawn today (by the cutest, plumpest old lady), and it got me thinking.

Since I've been in Paris, I went flying over my handlebars, and flying down a flight of stairs. I was accosted by a taxi driver, and I accidentally got drunker than I've been in years. I lost my glasses, a pair of nice earrings, and I broke my watch.

I've never exactly been a study of grace, but what's all that about? There must be some sort of neurological explanation, or at least a crackpot theory, about the high incidence of accidents when you're new to a city.

Pourquoi moi?

I feel lame. And I feel like I've been letting you down. The whole idea of coming to Paris was to live. To eat, explore, breathe in and absorb this city. But all I've been doing for the past 10 days—for most of the summer, really—is working. I'm exhausted. But more than that, I'm annoyed.

What happened to the laissez-faire sensibilities? To the blow-off month of August? What happened to the laughable French work ethic? Everyone else seems to be relaxed and smiley from their vacances, so I know it's not all a myth. Unless you're the American writer working through six weekends of the summer, waiting for a contract, and trusting that big things are going to happen.

Adding salt to the wound, I found out last night that they wanted/needed me to go to the Venice Film Festival next week for a project I've been working on. Of course, the first potential boondoggle I've had since I've been here (nope, no product discounts), and I'm already scheduled to be out of the country.

But that's okay. The disappointment of no Venice and the exhaustion of 60+ hours a week will all be worth it when I'm back in New York next week. I can't wait.

Room with a new view

I discovered something sort of cool tonight.

I can't see the Eiffel Tower from my apartment. But, when the lovely landmark has its hourly display of strobing lights, I can see the reflection of it in my neighbhor's window.

I'll take it.