The day time stood still

We took a one-hour ferry ride yesterday across the Rio de la Plata to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay.

The pictures speak for themselves. I completely emptied my mind and relaxed my shoulders.

It was blissfully quiet (except the occasional screech of green parrots overhead). Perfect weather, beautiful sunshine.

 

We just strolled the cobblestone streets and were transported in time.

 

Until we took our ferry ride back to the big city...

 

...and arrived at present day at the supercool Tegui.

We’ve no doubt been eating well here in Bunoes Aires. But this was a treat.

 

It started with a couple amuse buches, including this celery foam with salmon tartare.

Amazing bread and butter. Impeccable service. Starters of burrata and scallops in a coconut foam.

Andrew got the richest rabbit ravioli and I had my best dish here: sea bass with an octopus Bolognese. Heaven.

 I was too full for dessert, but we got it anyway. 

We're on vacation, after all.

Buenos Aires kickoff

I’m still processing Buenos Aires. With the drumbeat of it being the “Paris of South America,” I will say I was expecting more Parisian flair. But after two days of walking the city, I think it reminds me more of Lisbon and Madrid: Chic but in a boho way.

Sure there is Haussmann-era architecture…

 …but the charm lies in the one- and two-story colonial architecture.

 And the trees. Oh the trees! They make me happy…

In any case, it’s fabulous to be somewhere new. Loaded with advice from Doerte, Candice, Amee, Sofia, Michael, Kasia, Alison, Alex and others, we have no shortage of things to do, places to go and, bien sur, restaurants to try. So that’s what we’ve been doing.

Each morning starts with a lovely spread at our Ultra Hotel.

Complete with cupcakes.

We went to the Scandinavian favorite, Olsen, for a chic brunch…

… and the fabulous Resto for a beautifully fresh meal.

 We’ve had Peruvian-Japanese at Osaka…

… and his and hers salmon at Oveido.

(And yes the portions are as large and delicious as they look and, yes, wine is being consumed with every meal. Vacation!!)

 

There's been gelato and tea time…

Nightcaps, too.

And many lovely little moments...

  … I love having a new city unfold before me. Especially an artsy, inspiring, poetic, charming city like Buenos Aires.

The week that nearly did me in

I’m a masochist. I knew it was going to be a busy week at work, it always is before leaving on vacation, and yet I still accepted a freelance assignment. So on top of working three late nights at the office, and my performance evaluation, I had less than a week to write an article for which I had to contact at half dozen restaurants. And I had an all-day seminar for work squeezed in there. Plus my regular therapy session and my new career coaching session. Another doctor appointment, plus a fire drill in realestateland: a request to re-bid on an apartment we lost the first time around. By Friday night, I could barely see straight.

While I had to cancel plans for cocktails at the new Milk & Honey with Sally, one of my friend-colleagues from the Paris office, I got to spontaneously have drinks with Michael, who was in town. It was great to catch up and reminisce, though our Paris connection is now tinged with sadness at what was then and will never be again. Paris in 2009-2010 was our Paris. Experimental. Cha Cha. Rosa Bonheur. Velibs. The occasional epic experience like Le Grand Vefour. We had it so good. Life has changed since then, and so has Paris.

There’s no escaping the fact that Paris is succumbing to international influences. Though, yes, you can still find hundreds of kinds of cheese in one stinky shop and every neighborhood has its boulangeries, patisseries and cafes, every time I visit, I see more old-timely shops and corner bistros have been replaced by chains and fewer croissants made from scratch. Everything’s getting spiffed up. It’s not a bad thing, especially if you live there and want a little variety. It’s just bittersweet reality.

Life moves so quickly. As I get older, I’m trying to learn how to be more fully in the moment. I need to learn to let go of my tendency to take on too much. After this motherfucker of a week (it’s okay if I say that on my blog, right, if one of my yoga instructors said it in class?) I’m so looking forward to going to Buenos Aires (tonight! on a redeye!) and so appreciative of silly little videos like this.

Southern Hemisphere, here I come!