Favorite landmarks, monuments and historic spots

Not to sound like a total cheeseball but, still, nearly every day that I am here, I walk (or Velib) around this city and think, My God, could this be any prettier? It could be something as modest and quotidian as a streetlamp or the sun hitting a limestone façade on the Ile Saint Louis. But the magical thing about Paris is that there is not only great beauty with every turn, but also historic significance. Everywhere, there are landmarks, monuments and historic points. Here are five of my favorites.

Pont Alexandre III: Crossing over from the Right to Left Bank during the day, with Les Invalides and the champs opening before you. Or, walking from the Left to the Right at night, the domes of the Grand Palais glowing and the French flag snapping in the wind. And any time, the massive gold cherubs and horses atop the four posts—it makes me giddy.

Place Vendome: I am not quite sure what it is about this giant square. Yes, it’s pretty and symmetrical with a giant (phallic) column in the center. Yes, there’s the Ritz and Mikimoto and all the other gazillion dollar jewelry stores. But there’s something about the air there. It’s hushed, yet charged. It always makes me smile as if I had a secret to myself.

Stohrer: Lucky me. One of the city’s most historical and delicious patisseries is three blocks from my apartment. It’s not just the sublime chocolate tarts or pain aux raisins or chocolate éclairs, though those are all worth a visit in and of themselves. It’s also the exquisite interior—the murals painted and designed by Paul Baudry—and the fact that, nearly 300 years after it was founded by King Louis XV’s pastry chef, the house still makes all its pastries and cakes in the back kitchen.

Garnier Opera House: Speaking of Paul Baudry, he also designed the foyer of the magnificent opera house. Words cannot even explain the intricate but grand beauty of this place. You must go!

Square des Missions Etrangéres: I have a personal connection to this little square. I’ve eaten many a Pierre Hermé treats here, in the shade of a chestnut tree, on one of those perfect little park benches. I love that it’s in the center of the hoighty-toighty Rue du Bac neighborhood. Yet it feels private and discreet, green and calming. Total magic.

French word of the day: soupir

Def: sigh (to sigh (v) is soupirer)

A couple weeks ago, a few of us were sitting around a café table; two Americans, two Italians, an Aussie and a Frenchman. And, of all things, we were talking about the word “sigh” and all its meanings.

Sometimes you sigh out of exasperation (but, jamais, in Paris!).

Or you sigh out of pleasure. Utter bliss. (Oh, Mon dieu…)

You sigh when you’re tired… a little harder if you’re tired and frustrated.

Sighing often goes hand-in-hand with being sad. Wah. Je suis triste!

A nice sigh is out of passion or admiration.

You can sigh just to catch your breath. Or after you’ve been startled.

It’s actually a modest but loaded word, that little sigh.

Window shopping

There’s nothing like shopping in Paris. Well, you know, if you can afford it. I learned the hard way that, as often as I tell myself the dollar and euro are sort of on par, they just... are not. Splurging on French fashion is just that: a splurge.

So I settle for ogling the windows.

At Lanvin…

…Colette…

and even the relatively affordable ba&sh.

I like the way the mannequins look down at me.

But, even better, I like up close. Alberta Ferretti is one of my dream brands.


Givenchy, so austere.

Hermés, a wonderland. But you really have to see it in person.


And Hugo Boss, of all labels, inspired the most sighing.

Sigh, yes, sigh... a girl can dream, after all.

Starting the week happy & high

After a weekend filled with fancy cocktails, a four-course meal, cafe terraces at night, a birthday party, the Éclair Smackdown, Velib rides through the quiet streets at night and along the Seine in the morning, a marché visit (rotisserie chicken, fresh eggs and cheese and a beefsteak tomato), the movies with Mel (The Kids Are Alight – good, not great), a photo exhibition, a gift of flowers, prosecco in the afternoon, good phone calls, great news from friends, warm air and blue skies and a forecast for more…

I am a happy girl.

Bon lundi, tout le monde!

Friday night, trolling the town

I’m such a solo artist, it’s rare to share my strolls or Velib rides with friends. So Friday evening, when it was so glorious outside, I was happy to share a walk across the Pont des Arts with the lovely and amazing Jo.


After we crossed to the Left Bank—foreign territory to Jo!—the night’s all-star lineup included an apero at Café La Palette, a cocktail at Prescription, then back to the Right Bank: dinner at Rino with Sarah, a drink at Bottle Shop and then trolling the 11eme in the hopes of finding a good spot for a final nightcap. That didn’t happen. So we settled for the terrace of Pause Café. Then I velib’d home, late. Solo. Story of my life.

Views from the Champs-Élysées

I will say, one of the nice things about being shipped off to Avenue Hoche is that we’re close to the Champs-Élysées office once again. I’ve had a couple meetings there, and seeing as we we’re being treated to a titch of Indian summer, I made it up to the roof to enjoy the views, which reminded me of my giddy memories of when I first started here.

Boom—what a view!

Looking down the Champs, left and right…


Oh. Hello, Eiffel Tower.

You’re quite impressive, L’Arc de Triomphe.

You could toss a beret and hit the Louis Vuitton flagship from Ogilvy. (Note the pirate flag at top, in honor of their current Peter Pan exhibition at the Espace Culturel.)

Next step: find a Parisian pied-a-terre with views like this.

Weather check: time to gloat

I’ve waited all year for this. Finally, the weather in Paris is rivaling the weather in New York. It’s sunny, in the 70s, with that delicious smell in the air. Best of all, it’s Friday and the forecast is just as lovely for the weekend.

The nutty shoemaker

Once again, M. Louboutin is exhibiting his penchant for fun and kitsch. After fantasizing about a tapdancing career, he’s now a mad scientist with glowing green eyes and a kickass collection of bags and shoes for fall. I’d like to get me some.